Good tailoring is the backbone of any well curated wardrobe. The marble block to sculpt a masterpiece. Shirts, jackets and trousers (the latter being the topic of our day) are the essentials that really define a person’s style. These are the pieces most looks will evolve around. Getting dressed can read like a good sartorial story. Tailoring explains the main character, hinting at the wearer's personality and stating clearly that the girl has style. A vintage T-shirt, low-slung straight-leg trousers and a pair of lace-up brogues? Total cool kid charm. A pair of straight-leg black tuxedo trousers, a silk satin slip top and a pair of stilettos? A Helmut Newton soul with a Slim Aarons lifestyle. Straight trousers and conversation-starter shoes? Powerful and interesting.
A world of good style
Strong women who have style… it seems only natural to mention Stella McCartney next. An English designer with a sympathetic feel for Italian tailoring, Stella has revolutionised (along with compatriot Phoebe Philo) effortless style for busy women. We love the twist on slim-fit work trousers that Ms McCartney has for next season! What with their bold prints and simple shapes, these pants make Mondays all the more bearable. To avoid any disapproving side looks in the office, pare down with a blazer and white shirt. And throw caution to the wind after work, mashing up with killer heels and an oversized motorcycle leather jacket. Italian tailoring from Italians made with drawing-room style silk jacquards, who else but Etro? Utilise that European charm and team with a cream jacket and a pair of Church’s loafers.
In America the responsibility of laid-back elegance has landed squarely on the shoulders of Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen from The Row. Famous for a subdued colour palette of honey caramels and monochromatics made exclusively from luxury textiles, it’s these ‘basics’ like a pair of The Row cotton slim-fit trousers that can make your wardrobe distinguishable. Keeping within the genre, from France we would naturally pick Chloé. Chloé followers are walking talking testaments to quality and cut. It's easy to understand why there are such dedicated fans. Try the white trousers with a longer double-breasted jacket, or black slim-fit wool trousers with a lightweight trench coat (trench coatstied at the waist – a refreshingly classic way to take on the changing seasons.
It's in the details
Just like in menswear, details within tailoring are what changes between seasons. Sharp front creases have stayed consistent with the shortening of hems, creating clean lines and exposed ankles perfect for delicate heels. Man pants (or boyfriend trousers) have gained in popularity. Mid-rise, roomier around the thigh with a longer crutch, they make for a new silhouette that is fun to play with: a good mix-up to slim-leg trousers. Just as ankles are in vogue, so are lengths that pool on the ground. Try this style with tennis shoes and delicate silk shirts from Equipment. Slim-fit cargo trousers find their way into collections here and there from one season to the next. We suggest having fun with the masculine, utilitarian detailing of slim-fit cargo pants by contrasting them with frills or other ultra feminine touches. (Think like Gwen Stefani would.) High-waisted slim trousers are predominantly in silk and wool crepes that sit on narrow waistbands, sometimes with little side-cuff splits. These are good staple slim-fit black trousers to have in the wardrobe. They can be very dressed up, even as an alternative to eveningwear, or casual with a white t-shirt and sneakers. Coloured, patterned, embellished and elaborate silk jacquard weaves, these are for girls who would rather wear trousers than dresses. Each season will have a new print or genre to get excited about, the next appears to be heading towards baroque. Just like the details in a crime fiction, a small change can give the plot away. Build up on the classics that fit you perfectly first and then get adventurous with how you decide to wear them. The wonderful thing about a sartorial story is that you can change it a few times a day!